For the past couple of weeks I have been merely absorbing. Because of this not much writing has been seeping out. The focus is all on the intake now. Feeding myself. So while I wish I had at least been recording basic daily activities I can't apologise for lack of update here. So, now that you all know how not sorry I am, let's continue:
After journeying up to the sacred Cape Reinga I was heading east towards the Coromandel peninsula. A peaceful collection of communities and communes, isolated shores, bush walks to storybook coves, Maori legends. During the drive we stopped to bush walk to Cathedral Cove. It was a gruelling walk because it was a series of steep stairs. When the track finally curved down to the sand there were massive caves, arches and ridges still being formed by the persistent waves. As with everything in New Zealand, the outcome was well worth the effort. We stayed a night in Whitianga (fiti-anga). We arrived as the sun was setting so my time in the area was brief. I don't think I experienced enough of what I hear to be a place with amazing vibes, culture, lifestyle and activity. It will just be another area on my list of further explorations when I move you all down here and we travel the country together. (Start saving.)
The next day brought us south, first to Matamata, famous or infamous for being the Hobbiton location for Lord of the Rings. A local farmer owns the land on which the village scenes were filmed and now charges people $60NZD to see the hills and fields where Elijah Wood may have stood. All the set pieces have been removed so you pay $60 to see grass. He’s made about half a million dollars from this enterprise. From here it was on to Rotorua. I hear there's a lot of culture in Rotorua, but to me it was just a city that smelled like rotten eggs. The city is built on and around sulphuric thermal springs and pools. So this is "the place" for seeing bubbling mud pools and soaking yourself in a standard hot tub filled with naturally hot water as opposed to heated water. I just don't see the big deal. I had a much more enjoyable hot pool experience near Napier that I will go into later. I just took it easy in the hostel wondering "when exactly do you get used to this smell?"
I had been looking forward to my East Cape adventure since I arrived back on the North Island. I joined up with an intimate part of the tour called East Cape Escape. It's a ten seater van and a local Maori driver who knows the land, the history, the people. I stopped in Whakatane (faka-ta-nay) for two nights. This is the jump off point for boat tours to White Island, the only active volcano in New Zealand. It's about 50km from shore so you go out on a boat and they lead you on a trek up to the edge of the crater. Unfortunately, though the weather was gorgeous and clear on the mainland the conditions on the island were not suitable for landing. They cancelled all the boat tours out there. Again, something for my to-do list on the next visit.
After two nights here I joined up with the group again and headed further into the East Cape, stopping in Whanarua Bay. Robyn (Gwill's mum) had recommended a hostel called Maraehako Bay Retreat. So good was her description and encouragement that I planned to stay for three days. I wish I had had a month to spend in this haven. It was set down a treacherously steep road that curved and narrowed. But then, suddenly, you had arrived. This mecca was right on the Pacific, set on its own small bay. It was a playground for the exotic adventure seeker. Hammocks hung from the arms of huge, lazy trees over a stream fed by the property's own waterfall. The house itself was built on levels, like a treehouse. There was a good deal of shoreline to explore and out front you could climb along honeycombed volcanic rock to a cove littered with Paua shells, shining purple, green and silver on the beach. At night there was a big fire in the courtyard, where you could watch as the day dipped easily into a blazing finale. I was hesitant to leave, but Napier was calling.
Leaving Whanarua Bay we continued to head east, until we could go no further. We stopped right at the eastern most tip of New Zealand, the lighthouse. The first place to see the new day's sun. It was over 1000 steps to the summit, but the views of the Pacific and the surrounding coastal islands were well worth the exhaustion. That night we stayed on a farm. It was in Rangitukia, completely isolated. Normally I would have enjoyed a farmstay, but this staff was odd and gave me a creepy feeling. A kind of now-we-have-you-all-alone-in-the-middle-of-nowhere-and-no-one-will-hear-your-screams type of feeling. Of course the morning came without incident and we quickly packed and left. That night's destination was Gisborne, where I met someone from Durham NH. He knew Abby Green, a girl I went to school with. He knew the roads I used to drive. He knew about the blossoming lilacs we had just missed. He had been to certain shows at the Field House at UNH that I had also attended. He knew my mountains and rivers and tiny coastlines. For the first time I got really homesick and close to tears.
Napier. I called Robyn, Fritha and Gwill's mum, as soon as I arrived and she sounded so pleased to hear from me. My homesickness was completely wiped away. (I think when your darling mum is not near the mum of your closest friends will do quite well.) She said she would be right down to pick me up and we "could go and play". I've been here about two weeks and we have definitely down our fair share of play. Robyn lives on a really special property called Hohepa. It's a group of homes for people of all ages with special needs. In her home there are five women, ranging in age from seventeen to forty. Stepping out onto the deck which overlooks the beginnings of a brilliant garden, there are rolling hills that even now in the middle of winter are healthy and green. They give way to a cloak of trees, still deep greens but also brushed with bronze and gold. Past the forest the hills are often darkened by the clouds which bruises them from charcoal blue to a deep lilac. The clouds themselves are always changing in shape and colour, adding another dimension to the scene. Robyn keeps calling the land “benevolent” and I think there is no better word. It is easy to see that this land will care for you if you can return the thought. The community has its own farm producing vegetables, dairy products, etc for each household. Robyn even collects honey from her own bees. (I have been eating like a gluttonous queen.)
We've had a lot of amazing day trips. With Alice and Leina we drove out to the Tarawera hot pools. These simple concrete pools were filled with the hot thermal spring water and overlooked a subtle lime, hunter and seafoam green valley. It was hidden and peaceful. We didn't see another soul. I was grateful to experience hot pools in this way rather than the commercialised versions in Rotorua.
I've been lucky enough to be here for two Wednesdays, which is the day The Cat and the Fiddle has its Irish music night. We've gone for dinner and to listen to the intimate, spontaneous and improvisational folk songs. It was interesting to watch as people who came to be spectators grabbed an instrument and joined in. The group is for all levels and there were times when we were all singing along.
Yesterday Robyn made an impromptu decision to drive out to Lake Waikaremoana for a glimpse at one of her favourite spots. She filled up a cooler with all sorts of treats and we set out on the long drive. The lake is set at a high altitude, formed when the Pacific plate pushed its way underneath the Australian plate and forced the area to rise. The clouds were thick, but the sun shone through when it could. As it peaked out the cliffs, hills and clouds danced between purple, blue, green and gold. We sat on the edge of the lake sipping wine, eating herb cheese and crackers and watching two black swans and their four grey signets dive for grass. The drizzle forced us into the car, but we stayed a long time watching the day fade, while Robyn made a hysterical dialogue between the family of swans. Our drive home was dark, but we filled the car with songs and canons. It was a magical day.
My time in New Zealand is counting down in days now. Soon I’ll be back in Australia. Amazing how much time has elapsed. I wonder if I’ve changed at all.
Be Patient towards all that is unsolved in your heart
And try to love the questions themselves.
Do not seek the answers that cannot be given you,
Because you would not be able to live them
And the point is to live everything.
Live the question now
Without noticing it
Live along some distant day
Into the answers.
-Rainer Maria Rilke