Why Are You So Late?

After a series of non eventful bus rides we reached the Friendship Pass border between China and Vietnam. It was dark and empty as we had arrived there at closing time. A guard asked "Why are you so late?" but still, mercifully, stamped us out of China. We walked in complete darkness (could they not spring for ONE streetlamp?) across the Friendship Pass to the Vietnamese border. This guard was not pleased to see us but took the time to call a buddy with a "taxi". We were driven from the border to Lang Son, where it was too late to catch a minibus to Hanoi but also where I did not want to spend any extended period. Border towns have bad reputations... The driver called someone who spoke better English and I negotiated with him on a fare to drive us all the way to Hanoi. It was a clear, dark night and as we navigated the narrow roads we passed hundreds of young people dressed in brilliant white tops seemingly just hanging out on the treacherous highway.

Our driver had apparently never been to Hanoi and had to call someone to meet us when we crossed the city limits. He pulled over on a road choking with motorbikes to look for his guides. (He's looking for two Vietnamese guys in dress shirts on a motorbike. Can you say needle in a haystack?) They arrived about 30 minutes later and we set off to find the Old Quarter. About two minutes into the trip we lost them at a busy intersection. That's when the screaming started. He drove down a deserted street, made a U-turn, called them back and let them have it. He pulled over and jumped out into the street, yelling at no one. They found us and we set off again, snaking our way through clogged roadways until we hit the lake.

Hanoi at 23:00 on a weekend is not a great time to find accommodation. Some streets were full of speeding motorbikes and minibuses, honking wildly at each other. Others were pedestrianized and set up with market stalls selling everything from playing cards to chicken feet. Most hotels were full, but we were led to one with an opening and crashed.

We spent two days and a night cruising around Halong Bay on a junk. It was very much like Ang Thong in Thailand; limestone mountains rising out of the sea, caves to explore, a multitude of birds scavenging, fisherman nestled in coves pulling nets. There were small bedrooms on the bottom deck, complete with bathroom which felt quite a luxury on a two star boat!

When we got back to Hanoi the rain began and steadily fell as we made our way to the train station. We were taking an overnight train to Lao Cai, heading for Sa Pa. We studied our tickets as best we could in the downpour and hopped on the first carriage. Our cabin was number 11, but we planned to walk the length of the train inside rather than risk falling on the slippery walkway outside. Several times we came to a locked door and were ushered back outside. By the time we found our cabin we were completely soaked. Our hard sleeper berths had no blankets so we pulled off the wet clothes we could discreetly part with and tried to bundle up for a chilly night.

In Lao Cai we hopped on a minibus bound for Sa Pa and enjoyed what must be one of the most gorgeous rides in the world. Sa Pa is a dream.