It is interesting to see how Angkor is slowly turning into Disney World. They have done a lot of "improving" since my last visit with new walkways, "this way out" signs and ropes at every turn. There are even plans to install electric cars to run a loop through the complex. The only benefit I see in such a scheme is a reduction on pollution which I'm sure is adding to the destruction of the structure and bas-relief at the temples. It is certainly a wonder worth seeing, I'm just glad I have the frame of reference from visits over the years.
We went in to buy our passes in the evening and to watch the sun set over Tonle Sap (if you buy a pass after 5pm you get a "free sunset" and your pass begins on the following day). The usual steep and treacherous path up to Phnom Bakheng (such an adventure!) was roped off and we were forced to use the manicured trail which circled and slowly climbed the hill. There were approximately 3000 people at the summit. On the way down we decided to be daring and hopped the rope to our near deaths down the forbidden, steep decline. During the dark descent, Jessica was stung by a scorpion or some such creature and had to pull it's wriggling body from her foot. I'm sure she's eager to tell you more if you're curious.
Our first day we took a moto to Angkor Thom and concentrated several hours in that walled section. The second day we decided it would be super fun to rent bicycles and pedal the complex ourselves. We set out at dawn and enjoyed a peaceful ride into the park with the sun rising over our right shoulders. Speeding past the hordes at Angkor Wat we biked into Angkor Thom and out again, through the east gate. The air was cool and all was quiet except for the whirring of our tires. We sped to Ta Prohm, a favourite destination within the park. It was almost completely empty and we enjoyed some relatively tranquil wanderings among the ruins and towering trees with their massive root systems.
After that we were feeling pretty good, despite the fact we had stupidly eaten nothing before setting out. We decided it would be possible to bike the entire Grand Tour before lunch. Idiots. We backtracked through the eastern gate of Angkor Thom and headed up through the north gate. Five hours and thirteen temples later we were completely exhausted, famished and scorched. We collapsed into a couple of restaurant chairs and ordered a feast. In all we biked around 70km that day and felt like super heroes at the end of it. Very stupid super heroes.
Our final day we hired a tuk tuk to bring us to Angkor Wat for sunrise. This is always thrilling; walking across the moat bridge and through the gates in the darkness, watching the sky brighten behind the silhouetted peaks of the temple. Always a stunning scene and worth waking up early.
A couple of days of recuperation later, we took a hellish bus ride to Battambang. We should have listened to the agent at the hotel in Siem Reap who advised "you should really take the boat". I always warn others about the conditions on the #6 road and then find myself on it clinging to a vinyl seat with the sun in my eyes, inhaling red earth by the bucket load.
Battambang is lovely and quiet. We took motos to Wat Banan, an Angkorian temple on a hill (translation: up 200 stairs). This day trip also included a ride on the bamboo train, a perilous contraption that speeds along the tracks for several kilometers narrowly avoiding people and animals who walk beside it. There is word it will soon be made illegal because of the danger.
Having now ridden on it, I can not object.
On to Thailand...
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