Here, Somehow

It is always a welcome sight when the sun rises after nearly twenty hours on various planes in total darkness. In those long hours only the occasional brilliantly illuminated ship and then, eventually, a tiny Pacific island would send a beam of confirmation that the earth was still beneath us. The dawn began to blush past the tip of the wing. The clouds cleared except for a cluster of pink meringues seemingly swimming in the muted silvery grey of the ocean. The coast of Queensland was just beyond that cloak.

I transferred to Air New Zealand in Sydney and was off to Wellington. I guess it's strange that I always fly into Wellington instead of Auckland but I can not resist the view down the south island. First it's the stretch of the Tasman Sea crashing against the sand down the west coast. Then the mountain ranges come into view, dominated by Mount Cook, always topped with the long white clouds that Aotearoa is named for. Then we swing around over the Marlborough Sound and the rough waters of Cook Strait. The whole progression just makes me very happy.

Totally exhausted from two days without sleep I passed effortlessly through immigration and customs, though I did put 22.1.2009 as my birth date. I promised myself I would not sleep until at least 21:00 so I geared up for the windy day outside. I spent some time in Te Papa, the free national museum, but all the dark exhibits were encouraging my comatose state. After some exploration along the pier and down Cuba Street it started to rain and I went back to the hostel to read, stupidly choosing my comfy bunk instead of a common area chair.

Five hours later I woke up. This did not aid in my acclimating and resetting my internal clock.

I feel strange, in a lot of ways, to be here. It felt wrong for the first time to be leaving New England. Hopefully a plan for my future here will emerge and I will begin to feel more certain and enthuiastic. Maybe I'm just jetlagged and a dose of family time with Fritha and Rowan will do me good. On to Hastings tomorrow!

homemade sushi travels quite well

The rest of our time in New Zealand was so lovely. We hopped around the coast, visiting lighthouses and small hidden cottages. Every kilometer brought us closer to Fritha and Rowan and suddenly we were in Napier, hearing their voices on a payphone!

Fritha treated us like queens and it was nice to be with family once again. It's been quite a trip for that. Rowan was large and in charge, as Gwill had promised, and I treasured those moments with him. He is wise and excitable and musical and thoughtful.

We organized a two day tramp through the ethereal Whirinaki forest. This involved driving several hours to the national park and then having a guy drive us to the start of the trail and bringing our car to meet us at the end. Sort of complicated but well worth it. There was a bit of a late start and much of our tramp to the bunk house was in the dusk and darkness. While moderately frightening, this allowed for a peaceful moonlit time in the woods and the sighting of a rare owl. Arriving at the hut we found a group of hunters having a blokely time. They were alarmed by our homemade sushi dinner and tried to get all of us to eat venison. As I lay on my bunk trying to turn the snores from below into soothing lullabies, Maggie and Stacey (Fritha's sister and her husband) arrived! They had left well after dark and clung to the narrow path walls the whole three hours. We had been sure they wouldn't arrive at all as they had just flown in from Chile and had to make quite a journey to meet us. Incredible to see them again! The next day we all high tailed it to the end of the trail to meet our pick up.



Jessica and I had a day of rest back at gorgeous Tauroa farm in Fritha's precious cottage then headed back to Wellington to catch our flight back to the states. On the way I got a speeding ticket. Bollocks.

It is surreal to be back in America. I am living in Winter Harbor and commuting an hour to Bar Harbor most days. Forgetting what it means to sleep quickly... It's good to be near family but hard to be away from my favourite hemisphere. Counting down the days until November 23rd.

All photos from this trip should be up so until next departure, be well and happy!

Thanks for Visiting Pokeno: Home of Pokeno Bacon!

It didn't stop raining for the three days we were in Wellington but I was exceedingly happy to be in New Zealand. We rented a car and began to head out of the city. The clouds cleared and the sun started to illuminate the harbor. So beautiful!

We ventured through the gorgeous Tongariro Crossing and on to Lake Taupo for the night. Sitting by the lake we witnessed a breathtaking sunset.



Today we pushed on, unintentionally, through to Auckland. It's a small country and sometimes you're there before you can blink. The hostel we had booked for tomorrow night was full when we called to switch dates but the owner put us up in his sweet B&B in Ponsonby for the same rate. While here we'll be visiting Will and Iona, who we met in Irkutsk, Russia and doing little else. I will attempt to make Jessica bungy jump from the Auckland Sky Tower but I do not anticipate being successful.

simple happiness

Well, even as I threatened with departure, New Zealand was good to me until the end. I spent my last night in Wellington, catching a cast discussion of the movie "Whale Rider" at Te Papa, then enjoying the unseasonably mild winter's night walking around the harbor and city streets. Instead of paying for a hostel the night before I left (since I needed to be at the airport around 3 am anyway) I went right to the airport to wait 10 hours for my flight. I like a bit of self-torturing adventure.

After 36 draining hours in the same clothing (and shoes!), I am safely and contentedly in Cairns. The weather is brilliant. Sunsets knock me off my feet. I'm staying in a little oasis right in the city center. Tuesday I'll head off in a southerly direction, hopefully stopping off to do some wwoofing before relaxing again at Mission beach.

No spider sightings yet. Everyone keep up the happy thoughts.

Every Witch Way

The above was printed on a campervan spotted from Wellington to Taupo.

From Wellington to Auckland I spent a rainy night in Taupo, which is beautiful, but I have to say one of my least favourite places in New Zealand. I will be staying for two nights there on my way southbound to do the 17km day trek known as the Tongariro Crossing. It's said to be one of the most beautiful walks in the world, past craters, lakes and forest.

On the 22nd I stayed at a hostel called City Garden Lodge in the Parnell district of Auckland. Normally I wouldn't mention a hostel, but this one has significance for me. It is right next to Neil Finn's house and studio! And he and his brother are recording an album and rehearsing for a bit of an unveiling concert to take place next week. I could have just died. I have dreamed of being that close and straining my ear in the peaceful night to hear even a possibility of Neil Finn strumming. Well I got the chance to do it in an unstalker fashion! So exciting.

Paihia in the Bay of Islands was the next stop. It was so warm after the chilly south I was in heaven. I took a cruise to see many of the 141 islands that make up the "Bay of Islands". The water was calm and crystal clear and full of dolphins with a few babies out for the day. Magical.

Early on the 24th we left for Cape Reinga. We stopped at a Kauri forest, home to the second largest type of tree (behind the California redwood). These trees live for thousands of years and grow very slowly. When the Europeans came they chopped down thousands of them for houses back in the UK and masts for their ships, because the trees grow extremely straight and tall. Just to give an idea of how tall, they could use a whole tree trunk as a mast for a ship.

From the forest we headed up to 90 mile beach, which is only about 30 miles really. No one is sure why it's inappropriately named. We took our all terrain vehicle onto the sand and drove up the shore, swerving into the waves and around the beach. Exhilerating. This lead to Cape Reinga, where the Tasman and Pacific meet and mix in a foamy dance. There is a definite white line where the two collide and it stretches into the horizon. Maori people believe that when they die, no matter where they are in the world that their spirits travels up 90 mile beach to Cape Reinga. There is a tree at the point, the most northern point in New Zealand, and their spirit seeps through the roots into the ocean. Then they make a journey back to Haiwaiki, a spiritual homeland. Their culture is filled with so many wonderful stories, which I hope to further experience on the intensely Maori east coast.

Later this morning I head to Whitianga (fi-te-anga) on the Coromandel peninsula.

After seeing "Zach" again in the Bay of Islands ordering some fish and chips: I realize the damaging part of thinking I've seen a friend (because I'm far from home). It clips my wings. And the freedom, first true freedom, and independence I'd been working towards drops from me suddenly. I realize part of me is still back there, still sitting in Boston Common, calling me home.

New Zachland: My Twilight Zone

Christchurch has to be my favorite city so far. There are other days and places that have surpassed it, but as a city it's my most fondly remembered. Getting there was a long drive, but apparently it was to prepare me for my days of endless driving in Australia. We drove up the east coast, through the alps. We stopped for a view of Mt Cook or Aoraki (cloud piercer in Maori). The name of the lake we stopped in front of escapes me, but it was formed by the Tasman glacier and the waters were a milky, icy blue. The is caused by the "rock flour" that is chisseled off of stone as the glacier receeds. I've been seeing water like this all over the south island and it's truly remarkable. This is where I saw two of Zach's many New Zealand twins. When I first arrived in Wellington I counted three people who could have been mistaken for Zach in a line up. Over the past two months those three have become nine! Lake Tekapo was our lunch stop, another glacial lake, watched over by a small church where the driver offered to marry any of the passengers. (I think he meant he would perform the ceremony, but it may have been a proposal.)

What was meant to be two nights in Christchurch ended up as five. I fell in love when we drove up to the Cathedral in the afternoon and I caught a first glimpse of Cathedral Square with it's performers, artisans, food stalls. My hostel was right across from the art centre of Christ's College and next to the Botanical Gardens and Canterbury museum. The tram passed by my window each morning, rumbled on like a reminder of my St. Kilda childhood. I spent a lot of time inside the Cathedral, climbing the 134 steps to the lookout, mesmerized by the stained glass, and just thinking. It was a great place to relax and wind up my time on the south island.

The last day I took a day trip to Akaroa, which was meant to be a French colony, but the British rushed down to plant their flag as the French sailed in, so it became a French settlement instead. Relaxing and charming day trip.

From Christchurch we had a quick drive up the coast to Kaikoura. It's a small town set on a bay with mountains jutting into the sky all the way up to the water. Upon arrival we drove around to one of the largest seal colonies in New Zealand. There were countless seal pups swimming through the seaweed and diving off of rocks. I got up early the next morning to watch the sun rise from the Pacific off the hostel verandah.

The following morning we drove up to Picton, where I caught the ferry back to Wellington. It was so heartbreaking to be leaving the south island. It is truly an amazing place. As we pulled out of the lush Marlborough Sounds there was a glimpse of tiered and towering rocks reaching from the sea and in the distance the Kaikoura peninsula where the Southern Alps rose like the broad shoulders of kings. A beautiful last sight.

I'm in Wellington visiting with Gwill for a few days. He finally bought his ticket to London. Exciting! He'll be leaving in a couple weeks. Tomorrow I'll be heading north to sunny, warm days.

Warm Bed: Priceless

After 12 hours on a train, 4 fours in the pouring Wellington rain, 16 hours in the ferry terminal, 3 uncomfortable and freezing hours on a ferry, 5 more hours in the Picton ferry terminal and 3 hours on a bus I finally have a room for the night and can say I've been to Nelson, NZ.

I am overjoyed to be on the South Island and am trying to plan a side trip to Golden Bay, which is just north of Nelson. It's supposed to be sunny and gorgeous up there so I need to make it happen.

More when there are some actual developments, just wanted to say "I'm alive" cause after the nightmare of the past two days I can't believe it.

Rain Rain Go Away

Train was late from Auckland to Wellington. I missed my ferry. Which means I missed my bus. I have to catch a 1:30am ferry and then wait in the Picton ferry terminal for 8 hours! Luckily I have met a girl named Dorette (sp?) from Israel and we are going to scope out Te Papa and avoid the pelting, stinging, freezing rain. Hopefully the South Island will be more cheery.

Thinking about a lot of people today:
Mum, I am wishing I could sit on the couch and cozy up to you with some tea.
Ross, I'm hoping your interview went well, but I know you'll find the right situation eventually.
Nicole, I'm sending you some tissues, Vick's and Tim Tams.
Dor, I'm sending you an eye mask so you can GET SOME SLEEP and the biggest overseas hug possible.
Zach, I am seeing your evil twins all over Wellington. I'm getting a bit anxious we've been invaded.
Shannon, the bag you brought back from India has truly been all over the world and it's permanently attached to my shoulder. It's like you're here, inside my bag! (Yes, that's a good thing)

Those who are close to the situation will be glad to hear, I got my Australian visa. Cameron from immigration was the nicest immigration person I've ever dealt with and after looking over my documents he PASTED IT RIGHT INTO MY PASSPORT AND SENT ME ON MY WAY! Overjoyed.

a couple of stars who fell from the sky live up on the hill

After my first experience driving on the left side of the road, from Wellington to Auckland, I am safely in Mt. Eden with Gwill. He lives in a great, open house with about eleven other painters, musicians, and just lovely people.

Today we took a stunning drive north to Piha beach. The winding roads were covered with ferns and trees and bromiliads and was reminiscent of a back country Floridian road. Having just finished The Orchid Thief, I was filled with a sense of romance about the whole scene.

We hiked halfway up the Lion rock (which looks like a lion, hence the name) and sat looking over the black sand beaches and rolling hills, hiding tiny hillside homes. Upon descent, we walked along the beach peeking under rocks for starfish and crabs and other aquatic plants and animals.

Following the same roads home, but with heavy heads and brown faces I was reminded of my many trips up Mullholland Drive with Dorothy. I have such a heartache to be away from her. I glanced up the tree-canopied driveways and remembered craning my neck to search the Hollywood Hills for a house to envy.

While we were cruising along the twisted asphalt I thought how special it was to be with Gwill again, having not seen him for two years. I was trying to work out what I could say about how glad I was to be spending some of my trip with him. As if reading my mind, at that very instant, he reached over to gently touch my head. With us it is always as if no time has past. I am more assured with this visit that our lives will continue to intertwine, no matter how much time or space has drifted between.

HighlightsSoFar

Oh man, Wellington is gorgeous. I have a small fear of taking photos here, as none could ever do it justice. In comparison... well, it's a bit like San Francisco with its artistically structured and painted houses and art studios up on the hills of Mt. Victoria. I'm staying at a hostel that reminds me of Haight and Ashbury. The harbor is a bit Seattle with sunny skies and a bit old New England harbor village, like Newport. I am blissfully and slowly exploring...

Some of the things I've done and seen so far: taken the Cable car up to Kelburn, which affords a panoramic view of the harbor and city, then allows for a leisurely walk back down through the botanical gardens. Gone to Te Papa, which is a free museum focusing on New Zealand artists and Maori culture, twice. This is where I saw the Lord of the Rings exhibit (having always enjoyed learning of the complications, alterations and triumphs of production, this was interesting). Walked along the scenic harbor and watched the dolphins playing just out of reach. Explored the hidden avenues and glimpsed several hillside churchs.

I have been near tears several times at the sheer joy of my solitude. First time in 23 years that I've been alone and it's like heaven. This is in no way to offend the dear ones I have spent those 23 years with, it's just... oh to be able to walk slowly, or run, turn down Cuba St and then change my mind and walk in a different direction. I feel so free. I can decide, choose, reconsider. No one is trying to keep up or has to wait. It's so strange. Wonderfully, rewardingly foreign to me. I imagine you only children know how I feel. And I needed this solitude. It is already mending me tremendously.

Until Auckland...