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2.5.03

the truth is i could no more stop dreaming than i could make them all come true

Fox Glacier was amazing. I decided not to do a guided tour onto the ice. It was expensive and it's not easy for me to keep up with a group, so I didn't think I would enjoy it too much. Instead I walked from Fox township 3 km to the glacier access road, another 3 km up to the carpark and then another 1 km to the terminal face of the glacier. From far away it looked covered in soil, jagged, and ugly. But once I reached the terminal face, and was close enough to jump to the ice itself there was a blue tint gleaming within the ice and it appeared to be covered in a dusting of ash. It was beautiful. I ate my lunch on a rock at the terminal face and started on the journey back to town.


Walking on the glacier access road I followed the river. The water steamed and rushed down from the ice. It lapped against the black sand and stone of the riverbed leaving a milky sheen of ice. I took a detour, walked over a bridge and climbed part way up a neighbouring mountain for views of the glacier reaching up into the alps. Then I followed the road through the rainforest back to town. Fox and Franz Joseph glaciers are two of only a small group of glaciers that flow right up to a rainforest. They used to reach the sea, but have been rapidly receeding for hundreds of years. I'm quite amazed with the diversity and contrasts in the NZ landscape. Walking through the rainforest I was entranced by the way ferns hung from rock walls like a tapestry or how prehistoric looking bromeliads dripped from the branches.


The next morning it was off to Wanaka. We left the west coast and headed inland, through Haast Pass. The mountains became more violent and pointed and the lush forests became golden hills. I stayed at the Wanaka Hotel, right on Lake Wanaka. It's a peaceful little town (well, really there are few "big" towns in NZ) with a wonderful cinema. Being a rainy day I went with another American from my bus, Kevin, to see The Quiet American (haha). It's an alternative kind of environment. The seats are all random couches, old airline seats, recliners and even a VW bug! They had an intermission with the opportunity to eat dinner or have a lovely coffee or tea. Very nice way to spend a cloudy afternoon.


Even though the weather had been less than desirable for a couple days I am still weakened by the beauty that surrounds me. Every day is like a new door into paradise.


I'm in Queenstown only for a night, then I head on to Dunedin and the CADBURY FACTORY, which will be one of the highlights of my life I'm sure.

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