Learn Something New Everyday

Okay, let's get you up to speed. Bellingen was too beautiful to resist an extended stay. But after three nights, I was cold through to my BONES. Even still I enjoyed myself. Michael Hubbard, the young-slide-guitar-playing-genius, who performed at the Cool Creek Cafe, was gorgeously talented. After the show I walked down to the river where I attempted to cross over to Bat Island. It was pitch black, however, and impossible but the starlit walk was still invigorating. That night I went to stay in a community in the Thora valley. I slept in a caravan on the river's edge. Talk about getting back to nature. These people live in such peace. One woman lived in a house made out of the bamboo she collected from the forest topped off with a VINE ROOF. Amazing. I rode back into town with them for the markets. It was just such a great experience.

From Bellingen I travelled south to Seal Rocks. This is a transparent township on the coast, blink and you'll miss it. But it was the most stunning, pristine ocean scene I have ever witnessed. I stood on a snowy white sand dune above the bluest ocean, surrounded by red cliffs topped with velvety green vegetation, for at least two hours. People were milling about far below me, but I was alone. I sat as the sun drifted down my back, casting haunting shadows towards America. That night we built a fire between dunes and the group from the bus just talked, roasted bananas and marshmallows and looked at the green, orange and pink stars that shot across the sky.

After a night in Sydney I jumped on a bus for the Blue Mountains. The oil from the gum trees lifts into the air and creates a hazy, blue hue from a distance. Just outside of the city limits the mountains rise like indignant shoulders. This nature isn't going without a fight. It's been here, battling for millions of years. I read about a type of pine tree that's just been discovered in a Blue Mountain canyon. It was thought to have become extinct 65 MILLION years ago. It has needles, but they hang on fronds, like a palm tree. It's trunk is alive and textured, like a tall, lanky pine cone. It exists nowhere else in the world and has been hidden in this miraculous maze of mountains for all of man's time on earth.

I am staying in Katoomba, a very New England style town. They are having "Yulefest" right now. Feasts and Christmas-type celebrations. It's a fun time to have stumbled upon. Tomorrow I'm opening another musical door when I see Jodi Martin perform at the Clarendon Hotel. She's meant to be a rising star and her face has been plastered on posters all down the east coast. I will let you know how it goes. Aside from that I am doing countless bush walks which all lead to awesome views of the canyons, cliffs and mountains. The colours change with every minute, as the sun moves and clouds gather or dissipate. I know how lucky I am to be witnessing all this beauty.

"On a night like this I can actually hear the happiness inside me" -Rowan, my little sage

Quickly

In Sydney, finally. Tomorrow I head off for the Blue Mountains. There is a lot to catch up on, even though it's only been two days! It will all come soon. Right now I'm off for an early night in King's Cross.

Lost the Plot?

"When you travel, you experience, in a very practical way, the act of rebirth. You confront completely new situations, the day passes more slowly, and on most journeys you don't even understand the language the people speak. So you are like a child just out of the womb. You begin to attach much more importance to the things around you because your survival depends upon them. You begin to be more accessible to others because they may be able to help you in difficult situations. And you accept any small favor from the gods with great delight, as if it were an episode you would remember for the rest of you life.

At the same time, since all things are new, you see only the beauty in them, and you feel happy to be alive."

from "The Pilgrimage" by Paulo Coelho

Currently I'm in Bellingen, home of David Helfgott. (For those of you uncertain who that brilliant mind is please rent "Shine".) It's laundry time and I'm enjoying the bliss of being a sloth with a book and some leaf-filtered sunshine.

Tonight I'm out to discover some local acoustic talent at the Cool Creek Cafe. This place is relaxed and alternative. The people walk slowly, even if they have a place to go. The shops are enveloped in the felt creatures and garments of crafty Steiner mothers. The windows all offer yoga, meditation and tribal drum experiences. Bright, rainbow birds sing determinedly. I miss home.

Into the woods
To get the thing
That makes it worth
The journeying.

Not quite out of the woods with this sickness yet, but I'm getting there. From Bargara I travelled south to Mooloolaba. I stayed the for three nights as it was another good place to rest and they gave me my own room (it's good to be a travel agent). I took a day trip to Noosa, which is lovely. It reminds me of Winter Park (where I used to live in Florida). Unfortunately if you don't have a gold card there isn't a ton to do. Couple this day with my rereading of The Orchid Thief and you've got me feeling a bit homesick for Florida, something I never thought I'd be.

On the way out of Mooloolaba we stopped at an animal sanctuary. There were sweet, sleepy little koalas, some with babies in their pouches, wombats pacing in their enclosure and red kangas, some also with joeys in pouches. We got to hand feed them, which was really special. They look so reminiscent of my little kitty! I guess that's why I named him "Kangaroo Paw".

I've stayed the past two nights in Nimbin, which is a really relaxed and beautiful place to chill out. It's called the drug capital of Australia (humourous with their population of about 200). Last night when I went out, after being offered dime bags from four people from the age of 60 down to 10, I saw why. Regardless, it is a great community with a candle factory, interesting book store, wonderful organic cafes and a spectacular sunrise view from my bedroom window. Tomorrow I head south again...

now i know how a roasted chicken feels

I've been incredibly sick the past few days. I think it's the flu, which seems to be going around here. I am in Bargara, just south of Airlie Beach trying to recuperate. I was supposed to leave for Hervey Bay today to head out to Fraser Island, but now I think I will skip that all together. My whole body is just aching and I slept for maybe two hours last night. It was horrible. My head was dizzy with one of those fevers that you think "My head is just going to explode. My brain is surely frying." Nightmare.

Other than that... this resort is a beautiful place to rest. I'm staying in my own apartment, which is marvelous. There's even a sauna here. Movie channels and miso soup. A certain cure.

I miss my own pillow and the opportunity of a bath.

Back from Paradise

I'm astounded by how quickly the salt and sand have washed from my hair and skin. How quickly this experience has been washed from my body (never from my mind). From crystalized and sun-stained to smooth and bronze.

I have just spent three luscious days aboard the Matador yacht off the coast of Queensland. We spent the bright, spotless, azure days touring the WhitSundays. We hopped off to lounge on Whitehaven beach, blanketed in silica sand as light and fine as powdery snow. I was part of a small group, sleeping below deck or above as the night skies allowed, eating fresh and tasty food, snorkelling in the depths of the mysterious great barrier reef (amazed by the colour and enchanting creatures mere feet from the surface), counting the familiar constellations (everyone with their own knowledge and contribution) until we lost ourselves in the vastness of the universe and the conversation turned to something deeper. It is a trip I want to take again and again until the ocean sends me away, tosses me back onto the land. I have always been intoxicated with the expanse and haunting uncertainity in the seas. But I realize now that I have never known the water truly before now.

I am trying to keep my mind grounded now that I am back on dry earth. My legs sometimes sway and my dreams are liquid, languid and flowing. Amazing.

Boys in the Trees

The air in Northern Queensland is warm and gummy. It hangs on your skin like honey. Drapes you in toxic sweetness and heat.

I'm on Magnetic Island right now. Off the coast of Townsville. Just like New Hut on Koh Samui I'm sleeping in an A-frame hut. Tropical and lush. This morning I saw a Kookabura outside my door. He bobbed his head around like he owned the place. I guess he used to. His head looked too big for his beautifully sculpted body and neatly layered feathers. An incredibly hip bird. His fuzzy flatop slicked back like a six year old boy just out of the pool and away from mum's comb. Elvis in infancy.

Jotting down notes for my post I am sitting on an elevated level above the shore. With a perfect view of the coral reef. (That famous one) The sand is bright and light, like frosted glass, shattered. The water is a tempting ultramarine along the beach and then about 50 meters out drops off into death and darkness. Well, death for those who dare to walk too far, or life for those who make the ocean floor their home. The ocean would like you to know; it can reclaim you at any moment.

Went for a short bush walk today. Koalas dangled their arms from the trees lazily. Languid and charming little fellows. Maybe I can sneak one home...