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31.10.03

Where am I today, I wish that I knew

We are in Chiang Mai and I can not say how glad I am to be out of Bangkok. Our "VIP" bus ride was such a disappointment! It was not even comfortable and the treats were seriously lacking. We had been very badly sunburnt in the kayak and because we were sitting on the bus for so long our feet and ankles swelled up. We had hobbit feet. I kept having panic attacks that my legs would explode. I don't know if travel insurance covers exploding appendages. Have to look that one up.


The three of us took an overnight train to Chiang Mai and it was lovely. Being on the train is so relaxing for me. It was good to lay down fully to ease the swelling. The metrical flow of the tracks always lulls me. The rhythm is steady, like a certain lullaby and slowly, gently I drifted to sleep. A second train glided by like a secret. It rushed up unexpectedly, with seeming urgency, and left whispers on the tracks. Passing trains leave no trace and you feel that you couldn't explain what has happened to anyone who hasn't heard the secret too. When the sun rose I sat in my bunk and watched the northern hills roll by. Ross climbed down from his bunk and we sat together looking out the window into the jungles of Thailand.


Our first night here Kip and I went to the monk chat. We each had several monks to talk to and they were so pleased to sit and answer any mundane question you asked. Both of my monks were from Laos, so I even got travel tips from them! As we stood up to leave a passing monk said, "Why are you leaving? You got a hot date?" !!! Where do they learn this slang? That comment will keep coming up between Kip and I for a long time, I'm sure.


Yesterday we went to Doi Suthep. It is high in the hills with a panoramic view of the valley and a peaceful tiered temple. The bells hanging from the roof jingle when a breeze picks up. There are many open buildings with numerous buddhas whose feet are awash with lotus blossoms and incense. It's a place to comfortably sit for hours and focus your energy on productive thought.


We have moved on from our first guesthouse (Five Star House; just the name not the reputation). We were told we had to leave unless we booked a trek. It wasn't rough leaving as the place was pretty ordinary and they didn't even allow "lady joiners" (what?, indeed). There is a rumour going around town that Tinar, the hostess, is really a man.


It's our third day in Chiang Mai and we have bought too many things already. Our packs are begin to weigh us down like there is a 13 year old in a papoose on our backs. Must find a way to fix this...

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