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16.11.03

Yes, this dirt on the feet suits us fairly,
Yes, this crunch on the teeth suits us just,
And we trample it nightly and daily --
This unmixed and non-structural dust.
But we lay into it and become it alone,
And therefore call this earth so freely -- my own .


We woke up late as we are failures at getting an early start to the day. After a breakfast of pasta (breakfast of champions) we took a bumpy tuk tuk ride to the Landmine Museum. Since I was there last year the government has come and stolen a truck load of weapons and mines from his display. They give Aki Ra (to whom the museum and history belongs) a small commision to bring people through the Siem Reap War Museum, but it is next to nothing. He fears that soon they will come back with a bigger truck and take what is left. He has some new stories, articles and histories of his orphans posted to fill blank spaces left by the government's theft. There are about eight orphans living in his already small huts. All of them have lost parents due to landmine or UXO explosions or from a Khmer Rouge attack on a village. It was an amazing experience, even having been there before. The museum could be gone at any moment and I'm glad to have seen it.


While we were there a monkey jumped on Kip.


For sunset we rode out to Tonle Sap. With a German couple we chartered a boat and rode through the rafts, houses, schools, boats, churches and markets to the lake. I just love everything about this trip and know that I will do it again and again each time I return to Siem Reap. As the brilliant sun blazes towards the horizon the water sends willowy beams of light into the boat, illuminating the splintering ceiling and everyone's face. The cloth tied around the roof is thin and the sun shines through it with brilliant force. Children row by in their own small boats or perhaps a tin bucket. They are all naked and golden and smiling like they know no other way to hold themselves. They wave even if it breaks their rhythm and their vessel is beaten by the sloshing of our giant boat.

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