stars in the trees guide my way

My last day in Greymouth was uneventful. Everything was closed except the market, which was good because I needed to load up on groceries. The next opportunity to truly shop will be in Queenstown, which was about five days away. My new driver was Gail, who is a newbie at the whole bus driver gig, but a lot of fun. She used to be a teacher, but needed a change of pace. Quite a change of pace. From running after a dozen elementary kids to driving a huge bus full of 50 of them!

Lake Manhinapua was the stop last night. In the middle of nowhere, this hotel is bordered with beauty. On one side is the pristine west coast beach, where I watched a cloudless sunset. Another side are the verdant pastures full of grazing sheep. To the south is a view of Mt Cook ("cloud piercer" to the Maoris) and the southern alps. On the east is a dense forest path leading to Lake Manhinapua. I walked down here with the last of the sun's rays. (Think Snow White lost in the woods and you're close to my experience) I sat at the quiet, quiet lake and breathed in the relief of solitude, mesmerized by the perfect reflection of the alps in the water. Walking back through the trees, at an excelerated speed, I noticed in the moss running along the bottom of the forest and in the trees themselves were countless gloworms. Suddenly my panic turned to wonderment and I slowed down. It was magical to be led on a path illuminated by tiny glowing creatures. As I near the exit of the shaded greenery the ocean roared through the leaves. Surreal and lovely.

After driving through the tiny mining town of Ross earlier, I've landed in Franz Joseph. I just caught a glimpse of the neve of the glacier here, but I'm catching a shuttle to the smaller township of Fox. They have a similar setup and an equally brilliant glacier, but the town has a quaint alpine feel. It's nice to be separating from the group once again.

There will be lots to say about the glacier I'm sure. I'll try to get up to see it twice for photos and inspiration.

I'll take you to the mountains, I will take you to the sea, I'll show you how this life became a miracle to me

Okay, long over due is a message about what I've been up to. There has been a good deal of travel, so here it goes:

After my harrowing ferry trip, I arrived in Nelson over the Easter weekend to a ghost town. Most everything was shut down, some shops for the week! I decided to make my way north, towards Golden Bay. I saw an advert on the hostel wall about free shuttle service to Takaka from Nelson. I pounced and it led to two glorious nights at the River Inn in Takaka. It was just out of town, in a quiet farming area. A 6 km walk to Waikoropupu springs, which are the clearest springs in the world. The only water that can rival the springs are under the Ross ice shelf in Antarctica.

The town itself is small and quaint, very granola. I ate a few times at the Wholemeal cafe, which offers fresh soups and homemade breads. On my last night Erin, the manager, let me drive a few folks from Britain and Holland to the Mussel Inn, a food oasis hidden under a canopy of dense trees, bordered with lights that twinkle like gloworms in the branches. The next afternoon it was a winding journey through the hills back to Nelson.

On the 23rd April I left Nelson and ventured north again to Kaiteriteri beach for some scenic beach walks and bush hikes. On to Westport for the night where there was little to do but relax by the fire in the quite homey hostel. The following morning I went horseback riding at dawn up Buller gorge. I haven't been on a horse in a long long time, but it came naturally and was a good deal of fun. Quite exhilerating when we broke into a trot or canter. After the riding we made our way along the coast to Punakaiki where we viewed the pancake rocks. They have been eroded over time to form disk upon disk of stone. One day, in the not-so-distant future, they will be consumed by the ocean. That night I stopped in Greymouth, so I could easily get to Arthur's Pass the next day. I stayed at a hostel called Noah's Ark, in which each room is decorated with an animal theme. Clever. I was in the penguin room, but managed to stay warm enough.

Yesterday I took a two hour shuttle ride through the Southern Alps to Arthur's Pass. I am so glad I made the extra effort to see this place. After arriving mid morning and settling in I walked up a trail to Bridal Veil Falls. Gorgeous. I was feeling pretty good after that little hike, so I thought I'd tackle Mt. Temple. Two hours later my legs were a bit upset with me, but I was so proud of myself, my endurance and strength. The views were unparralleled. The alps were all around me covered in snow and glacial ice. Some were covered in brilliant white, others were hunter green, some glistened an icy gold in the fading sunlight. I stayed up there a good long while, until the sun started to disappear and I raced it down the mountain.

My accomodation last night was a charming cabin in the hills behind the township. It was heated by a roaring fireplace and was so lovely and peaceful. In the sleepy silence of New England on snowy nights I sometimes hear a passing plow that comforts and lulls me, like a soft whisper. Under the quiet stars of Arthur's Pass last night it was instead a train that rumbled through, comfortably reenforcing the tranquility. There are many times that I've been reminded of my home. I suppose I will appreciate it all the more when I return.

I've just returned this morning from a hike up to Devil's Punchbowl Falls, another spectacular view and challenging walk. My shuttle takes me back to Greymouth this afternoon.

Warm Bed: Priceless

After 12 hours on a train, 4 fours in the pouring Wellington rain, 16 hours in the ferry terminal, 3 uncomfortable and freezing hours on a ferry, 5 more hours in the Picton ferry terminal and 3 hours on a bus I finally have a room for the night and can say I've been to Nelson, NZ.

I am overjoyed to be on the South Island and am trying to plan a side trip to Golden Bay, which is just north of Nelson. It's supposed to be sunny and gorgeous up there so I need to make it happen.

More when there are some actual developments, just wanted to say "I'm alive" cause after the nightmare of the past two days I can't believe it.

Rain Rain Go Away

Train was late from Auckland to Wellington. I missed my ferry. Which means I missed my bus. I have to catch a 1:30am ferry and then wait in the Picton ferry terminal for 8 hours! Luckily I have met a girl named Dorette (sp?) from Israel and we are going to scope out Te Papa and avoid the pelting, stinging, freezing rain. Hopefully the South Island will be more cheery.

Thinking about a lot of people today:
Mum, I am wishing I could sit on the couch and cozy up to you with some tea.
Ross, I'm hoping your interview went well, but I know you'll find the right situation eventually.
Nicole, I'm sending you some tissues, Vick's and Tim Tams.
Dor, I'm sending you an eye mask so you can GET SOME SLEEP and the biggest overseas hug possible.
Zach, I am seeing your evil twins all over Wellington. I'm getting a bit anxious we've been invaded.
Shannon, the bag you brought back from India has truly been all over the world and it's permanently attached to my shoulder. It's like you're here, inside my bag! (Yes, that's a good thing)

Those who are close to the situation will be glad to hear, I got my Australian visa. Cameron from immigration was the nicest immigration person I've ever dealt with and after looking over my documents he PASTED IT RIGHT INTO MY PASSPORT AND SENT ME ON MY WAY! Overjoyed.

a dream is a wish your heart makes when you're fast asleep

I really didn't want to drag Ms. Amos into this world, but she dug her way into my dreams the other night. I think it has more to do with being far away and knowing that the people I love are all traveling, just like me, but miles and oceans apart.

In this dream, I was at a venue (reminiscent of Nampa Idaho circa 1999). I remember seeing Dor, Lisa, Nicole, Danica, Matt, John, Karolyn (on her own two feet!). Tickets were flowing like wine, which is how I remember that show. (People were arriving extremely late, because of the time change driving east, but there was still an abundance of tickets!)

Anyway, everyone was waved into the venue by Joel through the gates. As I stepped up Tori appeared and prevented me from getting in. She motioned for me to walk around the corner where there was a small cupboard-like door. I opened it and there was a narrow opening. A ledge in front of the window was covered in sliced tomatoes and playing cards. Tori whispered out "You have to come in this way or you can't come at all".

My time in Auckland is winding down. Gwill today mentioned that our relationship never falters, given an extended absence. It was nice to have my thoughts confirmed. It's been wonderful to share this time with him. Yesterday we drove out to Karekare beach with some of his flatmates. The peaceful nature of the beaches here is astounding. Nature walks right up to the doorstep of the ocean. There are no strip malls, no tacky hotels. It's pure and gorgeous. The misty spray of the water lifted from the shore and blanketed the dancing seagrass and looming cliffs. Last night the band Gwill manages, The Midnights, played a gig at a downtown cafe/bar. (NZ is definitely a cafe culture.) They are a reggae roots style band, and though it's not my dish as far as the genre, they were fantastic.

Gwill's graduation was last week. I was grateful to stumble into that occasion. It was a succint, brief ceremony but very poignant. Some of the speeches were given in Maori, the indigenous language, and then translated. Even still each speaker was concise.

Friday Gwill, Robyn (Gwill's mother) and I took a ferry to Waiheke Island. Here's a site where you can find info on Waiheke Island. We hired a car and drove through the dense forest, along the unspoiled beaches and into the seemingly Tuscan vineyards. At the Te Whau vineyard we stopped for lunch in their cafe overlooking the bay. Decadent. It was lovely to see Robyn (it's been six years) and she invited me to stay with her in Napier when I pass by. That will be a welcomed comfort by that point.

I'm off to the South Island late next week. I am thrilled but,

Missing you all.

a couple of stars who fell from the sky live up on the hill

After my first experience driving on the left side of the road, from Wellington to Auckland, I am safely in Mt. Eden with Gwill. He lives in a great, open house with about eleven other painters, musicians, and just lovely people.

Today we took a stunning drive north to Piha beach. The winding roads were covered with ferns and trees and bromiliads and was reminiscent of a back country Floridian road. Having just finished The Orchid Thief, I was filled with a sense of romance about the whole scene.

We hiked halfway up the Lion rock (which looks like a lion, hence the name) and sat looking over the black sand beaches and rolling hills, hiding tiny hillside homes. Upon descent, we walked along the beach peeking under rocks for starfish and crabs and other aquatic plants and animals.

Following the same roads home, but with heavy heads and brown faces I was reminded of my many trips up Mullholland Drive with Dorothy. I have such a heartache to be away from her. I glanced up the tree-canopied driveways and remembered craning my neck to search the Hollywood Hills for a house to envy.

While we were cruising along the twisted asphalt I thought how special it was to be with Gwill again, having not seen him for two years. I was trying to work out what I could say about how glad I was to be spending some of my trip with him. As if reading my mind, at that very instant, he reached over to gently touch my head. With us it is always as if no time has past. I am more assured with this visit that our lives will continue to intertwine, no matter how much time or space has drifted between.