After my harrowing ferry trip, I arrived in Nelson over the Easter weekend to a ghost town. Most everything was shut down, some shops for the week! I decided to make my way north, towards Golden Bay. I saw an advert on the hostel wall about free shuttle service to Takaka from Nelson. I pounced and it led to two glorious nights at the River Inn in Takaka. It was just out of town, in a quiet farming area. A 6 km walk to Waikoropupu springs, which are the clearest springs in the world. The only water that can rival the springs are under the Ross ice shelf in Antarctica.
The town itself is small and quaint, very granola. I ate a few times at the Wholemeal cafe, which offers fresh soups and homemade breads. On my last night Erin, the manager, let me drive a few folks from Britain and Holland to the Mussel Inn, a food oasis hidden under a canopy of dense trees, bordered with lights that twinkle like gloworms in the branches. The next afternoon it was a winding journey through the hills back to Nelson.
On the 23rd April I left Nelson and ventured north again to Kaiteriteri beach for some scenic beach walks and bush hikes. On to Westport for the night where there was little to do but relax by the fire in the quite homey hostel. The following morning I went horseback riding at dawn up Buller gorge. I haven't been on a horse in a long long time, but it came naturally and was a good deal of fun. Quite exhilerating when we broke into a trot or canter. After the riding we made our way along the coast to Punakaiki where we viewed the pancake rocks. They have been eroded over time to form disk upon disk of stone. One day, in the not-so-distant future, they will be consumed by the ocean. That night I stopped in Greymouth, so I could easily get to Arthur's Pass the next day. I stayed at a hostel called Noah's Ark, in which each room is decorated with an animal theme. Clever. I was in the penguin room, but managed to stay warm enough.
Yesterday I took a two hour shuttle ride through the Southern Alps to Arthur's Pass. I am so glad I made the extra effort to see this place. After arriving mid morning and settling in I walked up a trail to Bridal Veil Falls. Gorgeous. I was feeling pretty good after that little hike, so I thought I'd tackle Mt. Temple. Two hours later my legs were a bit upset with me, but I was so proud of myself, my endurance and strength. The views were unparralleled. The alps were all around me covered in snow and glacial ice. Some were covered in brilliant white, others were hunter green, some glistened an icy gold in the fading sunlight. I stayed up there a good long while, until the sun started to disappear and I raced it down the mountain.
My accomodation last night was a charming cabin in the hills behind the township. It was heated by a roaring fireplace and was so lovely and peaceful. In the sleepy silence of New England on snowy nights I sometimes hear a passing plow that comforts and lulls me, like a soft whisper. Under the quiet stars of Arthur's Pass last night it was instead a train that rumbled through, comfortably reenforcing the tranquility. There are many times that I've been reminded of my home. I suppose I will appreciate it all the more when I return.
I've just returned this morning from a hike up to Devil's Punchbowl Falls, another spectacular view and challenging walk. My shuttle takes me back to Greymouth this afternoon.
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